Caucasus Mountains latest issue of AWAYN magazine


Persian Tourist Kandovan, East Azerbaijan

The village of Kandovan in Iran's East Azerbaijan Province is home to ancient cliff dwellings, some of them resided for as long as 700 years. The rock forms in the region are the remains of volcanic activity from nearby Mount Sahand. Over the centuries, inhabitants have carved homes out of the rock faces and gradually added rooms, porches, windows, and stairwells. Many would call this town an Iranian Cappadocia 

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Activities: HikeHike TourismTourism
Amenities: Child Friendly Child Friendly Food Nearby Food Nearby Hotel Nearby Hotel Nearby Lodge Nearby Lodge Nearby Picnic Area Picnic Area Parking Parking Restrooms Restrooms Wireless Internet Wireless Internet


Loyd L Barrow Gergeti Trinity Church

If you have more than a few days in Georgia – get out of Tbilisi and explore the Caucasus Mountains. Stepantsminda's main attraction is the Trinity Church of Gergeti, a humble church of the 14th century perched high on a mountain peak. It is very important in the history of Georgia.


The author Vakhushti Batonishvili wrote in the 18th century that the precious relics of the church in Mtskheta (such as the cross of St. Nino) were brought here for safe keeping in times of danger. I can see why it's not easy to get to this church.

The church itself is not Georgia's most spectacular or architecturally stunning building, but it's the location that makes it special. It is perched 2200 m high on a mountain overlooking Stepantsminda's small village, surrounded on all sides by towering snowy peaks.

Gergeti Church is worth a visit mainly because of its amazing isolated location. Serious trekkers might not consider the hike from Stepantsminda (otherwise known as Kazbegi) to the 14th century Gergeti Trinity Church a real trek at all. The uphill walk takes the best part of two hours at an elevation of 2170m, but compared to hiking to Gergeti Glacier or Mount Kazbek, it is nothing. I'd classify it as an entry-level trek, exactly what we've been looking for. You don't need any special hiking boots or poles or gear (in sneakers I made the walk quite comfortably).

The only things you need to take with you are water, some snacks, sun protection gear, and a jumper if you’re trekking outside summer season. If driving up there is now a new road so no need for a 4x4 or taxi. Although we're wondering how long the road will last properly. There is a lot of debris on the road from unsecured overhang edgings, and a lengthy stretch where the road has dropped away already.


Shame it is that there is no business coffee vendor at the top

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Activities: BackpackBackpack HikeHike TourismTourism
Amenities: Child Friendly Child Friendly Dog friendly Dog friendly Food Nearby Food Nearby Hotel Nearby Hotel Nearby Picnic Area Picnic Area Parking Parking

AWAYN Editorial

Tusheti: the gods’ souls shelter

Imagine going up through the clouds to be above them at 3.000 meters over the sea level. Now close your eyes and take a breath of fresh air before gazing at the most stunning sunset you have ever seen. When you feel ready to continue, get in the car and follow the river to a large forest glade, the entry to this pristine historical region. You can only experience this on your way to the isolated and mysterious Tusheti. 


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We were hitchhiking on the road with no plans nor expectations but the will and the desire of travelling into the unknown was there, waiting for the destiny to make its move. Our path crossed with Achiko’s, a 28-year-old good-looking Georgian lad who stopped in front of us and guess what, he was going to his family house up there! 

It’s impressive how the landscape can drastically change in just 85 kms. stretch of road: from the vineyards in Kakheti valley rising up the meandering path across waterfalls and under interwoven branches arcs, to the flowering slopes in the other side of the Abano Pass: the most dangerous high mountain pass in Georgia and one of the highest in Europe, only reachable by 4x4 car or by foot, the traditional way. 



In the back seat of his Suzuki, my 20-year-old friend Max from Ukraine, the 28-year-old Belgium solo traveler Noémie whom we met while hitchhiking that morning and me. In the passenger’s seat was Gela, the 31-year-old Achiko’s half-brother and he was in charge of playing traditional Georgian music, lighting the cigarettes and providing beer to our cheerful driver. 

We crossed with several shepherds leading their cows, horses and flocks of sheeps to their winter houses in Zemo and Kvemo Alvani and other towns in Kakheti. It was the 1st. of October, perfect time for the transhumance because the road is closed from the middle of the month and it’s accessible again on late May, when there’s no more snowfalls and rains. 


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At some point we had the feeling of being in a roller coaster, not only because we were screaming and hitting each other due to the bumps, we were also going up so fast and the abrupt turns looked even more dangerous. We were trying to fasten our safe belts while yelling “slow down!” in every language we knew besides Georgian, the only one they spoke. 

The brothers were laughing at us and we got it, it was pointless to buckle up because if we fell down it would be over anyways, considering we had left behind the tree line one hour ago. Later we realized that he knew that road like the back of his hand. 

Achiko stopped the car suddenly and before going down, he grabbed some thin beeswax candles and lighted them. They showed us that we had to make the sign of the cross before placing them under one of the many tombstones all along the route as a way to pay tribute to the memory of the people who died trying to reach the bucolic villages of Tusheti. 

On the highest point of the pass we found a shepherd and we drank Georgian vine vodka known as “chacha” in a kantsi, a traditional drinking horn of ram or goat. We toasted to our lives, “to be alive” meanwhile we stared at the sun disappearing in the vast ocean of clouds. 



We were not able to see further than the distance reached by the high beams on our way down but we arrived safe to Kakhabo, the hamlet where their family comes from. To everybody’s surprise, their friend Soso and his son Giorgi were waiting for us with freshly baked kotori, a cheese-filled bread traditional from Tusheti and of course with liters and liters of homemade chacha and wine! 

The next day, I woke up the first just before the sunrise and I left the house silent. I was amazed when I found out that it was built on the craggy peak of the mountain! From there you can also see Omalo, the largest village of the region, and the medieval towers of Keselo, the shelter of the local people during the war time. 

It took me three minutes to reach the top from where you have a 360o unbelievable view of the colorful surrounding nature. I felt the caress of the tenuous rays of sunlight on my skin and the fresh scent of pine mixed with an unexpected orange blossom smell impregnate the air. I could hear nothing but the whisper of the breeze coming from the valleys, going up by the hillsides and passing through the birch woods. What a pleasant feeling and such a peaceful moment! 

Throughout Georgia they have the beautiful belief of the guests as a gift from God and Tusheti region is not the exception. We were received with open arms in two of the brother’s friend’s houses and they greeted us with breakfast and lunch. To kick-start our day we had chacha, wine, a delicious chicken soup, the cottage cheese fondue khavitsi and salad made with vegetables recently picked from their garden. 


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“We’ve been always seeking to have a peaceful life in these mountains, our home”, explained Soso in Russian to Noémie, and she kindly translated to us. He also told us that for centuries Tusheti has been the place where people from all around the Caucasus have come seeking refuge, running away from all kind of invaders: Muslims, Christians, Mongols, Russians or Persians. An amazing example of Georgian hospitality and coexistence. 

Afterwards we visited Omalo and they explained to us that the Tush or Tushetians have been living in communities in these mountains for centuries. They have been trying to be in harmony with nature, a traditional precept of the animistic ‘pagan’ religion professed by their ancestors. Below this village you can find the beginning of the roads that run through Gomtsari and Pirikiti valleys, wonderful hiking trails to discover the most innermost landscapes of Tusheti! 

Wandering under the sky full of stars and staring vacantly at the purple shape of the mountains far away on the horizon I wondered out loud: why it feels like the time stopped since we arrived here? After a long silence, Max replied: maybe because is where all the old gods' souls came looking for shelter... 

I nodded yes. Tusheti is the most breathtaking place I’ve found in my 9 months travelling all along Georgia. So, what are you waiting for to dive into one of the most authentic and enchanting regions in the Caucasus?! 



More ADVENTURES highlights


Scott Norris City of the Dead Dargavs

Dargavs is a settlement in Prigorodny District of the Republic of North Ossetia–Alania, Russia, located on the Gizeldon River. The people of the nearby village used to bury their dead family and loved ones, often in small wooden "boats" as found by archaeological discoveries. Though there are no navigable rivers nearby the village, it is thought they did this as it was thought that the soul of the dead one had to cross a wide river after death. The dead would be buried with some of their belongings.


It is said that when there would be plagues that wiped out entire families some sick, with no one to bury them, would go into their family crypts and await their death.The crypts that are more sparsely placed are common crypts where people would be buried if there were no one to bury themor if they were not from the village.There are found many coins in the ground by the complex as Ossetians would throw a coin from the hill for a dead family member and if the coin hit stone it meant that the soul of the dead one had reached heaven. This could also be done in the small wells that are in front of every crypt.

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Activities: HikeHike
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Robert Sarkisian Mt aragats

This hike starts  from the altitude of 3,250m above sea level. The starting point is by the Kari Lake.  Aragats used to be one of the largest volcanoes in the world which now has four peaks and an immense crater.  While the North Summit of Aragats is the tallest mountain top in the Republic of Armenia, the South Summit is everyone's favorite. 

The best time to hike is around May. The weather should be warm, but still covered with snow. 

There is a hotel-restaurant  near Kari Lake which is famous for serving khash–one of the tastiest dishes in Armenian cuisine. 


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Activities: ClimbingClimbing HikeHike
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